Today we’ll be talking about one of my favorite places in the whole world: Naples, or the unofficial capital of the Italian South.
A weekend in Naples should be enough to discover the absolute must-sees of this fascinating and millennia-old city (though you’ll never run out of things to do if you stick around a bit longer).
I’ll show you around the birthplace of pizza in an exquisite 2-day itinerary. Let me just grab a Margherita to go and I’ll be properly equipped for our tour!
Table of Contents
Tips for your trip to Naples
Where to stay
The historic core around Spaccanapoli street (more on that later) is the safest and most suggestive area in town, so this is arguably the best district for first-timers. Highlights here include the charming Santa Chiara Boutique Hotel and budget-friendly Palazzo d’Auria ApartHotel.
Alternatively, the upscale Chiaia neighborhood makes the perfect stage for a seafront Neapolitan vacay. Pick one of The Britannique by Hilton’s exclusive rooms for commanding views of the Gulf of Naples or book Il Sanfilippo for a cozier stay.
Also read: 20 Best Resorts and Beach Hotels in Naples (Italy) for a Seaside Getaway
How to get around
The rugged terrain of Naples is one of its distinguishing features. As a result, the Italian city is dotted with overpasses, tunnels, elevators, and cable cars. That means getting around can be tricky for first-time visitors and especially for folks with mobility issues.
That said, Naples does have a modern subway network connecting most of the areas you’ll want to see. A few stations like Toledo (pictured above) are attractions in their own right.
Also, the way I’ve structured our 2-day itinerary will help you cover most sights on foot. This is particularly valuable in a place where city life itself is a must-see.
Also read: How Many Days in Naples is Enough? Itinerary & Tips
Weekend in Naples: What first-timers can’t miss
Day 1
Morning: San Ferdinando and Quartieri Spagnoli
Let’s kick off our Saturday with a decadently sweet breakfast, just like a local. The king of Naples’ famous pastry tradition is sfogliatella, which is typically filled with chocolate, jelly, or cream.
Though not much larger than a hole in the wall, La Sfogliatella Mary is one of the best pasticcerie (i.e. pastry shops) in town. We’re in the San Ferdinando neighborhood, more precisely at the historic Galleria Umberto I, an upscale shopping gallery that was modeled after Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Cross the Galleria (take your time to stop by the shops that catch your eye) and you’ll be a block away from our next destination. Castel Nuovo (aka Maschio Angioino) is a 13th-century fortress from which Neapolitans would defend their city from invasions.
Afterward, head back to the beating heart of Naples, Piazza del Plebiscito, where the Royal Palace and the massive Church of San Francesco di Paola face each other. Both are worth a visit for their lavish interiors.
But before you get there, make sure you stop by Teatro di San Carlo. That’s Naples’ neoclassical opera house, where composers like Rossini and Donizetti made a name for themselves.
Even if you’re not an opera buff, you won’t regret coming back in the evening to watch a performance and see the theater in all its glory.
Now let’s walk toward Quartieri Spagnoli for the sharpest possible contrast with Teatro di San Carlo’s splendor. You’ll know what I mean when you spot colorful murals and clotheslines hanging over our heads across the narrow alleys.
The working-class neighborhood — where the Neapolitan language always has the upper hand over Italian — can seem a bit sketchy to some. If you want to feel extra safe as you discover the district, book a walking tour of Quartieri Spagnoli with a local.
Here you’ll find authentic and affordable eateries like Trattoria Da Concetta, which serves Neapolitan classics like frittelle and spaghetti alle vongole.
Afternoon: Via Toledo and Vomero
There’s nothing more fitting after a hearty meal than a leisurely stroll, right? So Via Toledo, Naples’ one and only main street, is where we’re going next.
Lined with coffee shops, department stores, boutiques, and majestic palaces-turned-museums (e.g., Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano), Via Toledo runs along the eastern edge of Quartieri Spagnoli, from the northern end of Piazza Plebiscito to Piazza Dante.
Speaking of Piazza Dante, that’s where you can take the yellow line of the subway. Get off at Vanvitelli to discover the uphill Vomero neighborhood. Alternatively, you can walk a few blocks to the west and take the cable car from Montesanto to Morghen.
Vomero is a quiet district that was once dotted with turn-of-the-century villas. While most of them eventually gave way to apartment buildings, two of the most monumental landmarks of Naples have survived to this day: Castel Sant’Elmo and Certosa di San Martino.
Castel Sant’Elmo is a medieval fortress perched on top of the hill from where you can get panoramic views of Naples, the Gulf, and Mount Vesuvius. The castle houses the Napoli Novecento Museum, which is devoted to 20th-century art.
You’ll just have to cross the street to visit Certosa di San Martino, a former Carthusian monastery with ornate Baroque frescoes and patios.
Evening: Chiaia
From Piazza Fuga in Vomero, the Centrale cable car line will take you to the Augusteo stop, which is right off Via Toledo. Walk toward Via Chiaia, which is a few blocks to the south, and check out the old cafes and restaurants.
Via Chiaia winds down toward the sea. At one point, you’ll have to choose between walking straight ahead toward the promenade or turning right into Via Filangieri, which is lined with high-end boutiques like Versace, Prada, and Hermès.
Don’t linger around for too long, though, because walking through Chiaia’s seafront boulevard between the golden and blue hours is among the most magical things to do in Naples. Plus, you risk missing the stunning sunset over the Gulf and ancient Castel dell’Ovo.
To grab dinner after that, you should head back to the innermost streets, where restaurants like Taverna La Riggiola will treat you to a modern take on Neapolitan cuisine. The area is also brimming with trendy bars like L’Antiquario, where you can head for some rooftop cocktail sipping.
Day 2
Morning: Spaccanapoli
Before Via Toledo was built in the 16th century, Via Benedetto Croce served as Naples’ high street ever since the city was founded by the ancient Greeks. The street is better known as Spaccanapoli, which literally (and fittingly, as you can see above) means “cuts-through-Naples”.
Landmarks on and around Spaccanapoli span many styles and eras and include the Church of Gesù Nuovo, the Cloister of the Clarisses, and the Sansevero Chapel, where the marvelous Veiled Christ sculpture is on display.
Turn right on Via San Gregorio Armeno to take a better look at Naples’ Nativity scene tradition. Here, dozens of craftsman workshops showcase elaborate (and often witty) miniatures that you can take back home as an unusual Italian souvenir.
And in case you still have time before lunch, you can tour the city’s network of underground tunnels, which served multiple purposes throughout history.
Spaccanapoli boasts lots of traditional restaurants, yet some are closed on Sundays. But since you can’t leave town without tasting a grade-A Neapolitan pizza, hit L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele. You’ll find locals crammed outside, eagerly waiting to feed their Marinara and Margherita cravings.
Afternoon: Sanità and Capodimonte
Before you head toward the National Archaeological Museum (the vastest of its kind nationwide), you may want to take a closer look at the impressive treasure of San Gennaro (kept in the museum of the name same) and the adjacent Naples Cathedral.
The Archaeological Museum is infamous for its Secret Cabinet, which houses ancient erotic (and often crude to modern standards) art.
Now we’re at the Sanità district, which was built in the late 1500s at the site of ancient burial grounds. Here you can visit the catacombs of Saint Gaudiosus, as well as those of San Gennaro.
Right by the catacombs of San Gennaro, spread over 306 acres, you’ll find Naples’ most beautifully manicured green area.
The lovely Capodimonte Park has as its centerpiece the imposing Royal Palace of Capodimonte, which is home to an art museum with masterpieces by the likes of Raphael, Titian, and Caravaggio.
What’s more, you’ll have the entire at your feet from the garden around the palace’s fountain.
Evening: Piazza Bellini
You’ll have moved quite far away from downtown now, yet if you cross the street on Via Miano all bus lines will take you back to Piazza Dante.
Right behind the square at Piazza Bellini, you’ll find a younger crowd hanging out to live music around the ruins of Naples’ Greek walls.
While the square itself offers more nighttime fun than dinner options, amazing places like Azzuppa and Monsù are a stone’s throw away. A street food tour of the area is highly recommended as well.
When you’re done eating, walk back to Piazza Bellini and order a cocktail (or many) at Alkymya Bellini or Primo Maggio.
Also read: 12 Best Food Tours in Naples You Should Book
Bonus: Day trip suggestions
If you’re spending more than 2 days in Naples, go on and check out some of the best-rated attractions you’ll find within or near the metropolitan area.
Amalfi Coast
The jagged stretch of coastline to the south of Naples is dotted with fishing villages overhanging its azure sea. The scenic drive through quaint towns like Positano and Praiano is almost too beautiful to be real.
Still, reaching the Amalfi Coast by train from Napoli Centrale station can definitely be a smart move; the local government has recently adopted stricter driving restrictions over peak season to fight the area’s notorious traffic problems.
If you get off at either Sorrento or Salerno (which are both right outside the Amalfi Coast to the west and east, respectively), you can embark on a relaxing boat tour of the region.
Pompeii and Herculaneum
“Seeing is believing” is the proverb that best describes these two ancient Roman cities, which in 79 CE were both buried under several layers of lava following Mount Vesuvius’ fateful eruption.
Pompeii is famous for its monumentality — the town had even an arena of its own —, while Herculaneum boasts impressively well-preserved and lavish interiors.
You can easily reach the remains of Pompeii and Herculaneum with the Circumvesuviana train line from Napoli Centrale.
But do make sure you book a private tour with an experienced guide, or chances are you’ll have a hard time knowing what’s what.
Capri
Head to the picturesque island of Capri to wonder at its signature rock formations (the three faraglioni di Capri) and the iconic Blue Grotto. Sparsely inhabited and dramatically steep, Capri is a hiking lover’s heaven — yet from the sea it’s absolutely magical.
You can take a good look at the faraglioni from the Gardens of Augustus uphill if boat rides aren’t your piece of cake.
I do promise, though, that zipping right through the arched faraglione and entering the Blue Grotto on a sightseeing cruise is the sort of thrill you did know you needed.
Conclusion
By now it should be easy to understand why Italians say vedi Napoli e poi muori, or something like ”die only after you’ve seen Naples”. The gorgeous city squeezed between the Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvius should definitely be on your bucket list if you want to experience Italy to the fullest.
Better still, a weekend in Naples can easily become a week-long vacation in southern Italy if you’re down to explore all the breathtaking sights in the surrounding area, from Pompeii to the Amalfi Coast.
